Do You Struggle With Painting Tools and Techniques?

Find The Right Painting Tools and Techniques

This is a 4 piece series on painting tools and techniques. Here in part one I will examine protective gear and masking. Later in article two I’ll examine ladders and scaffolding and in article 3 I’ll talk about brushes and rollers. Finally, in part 4 we’ll look at sprayers, caulk guns, wire brushes, braces and knee pads, and swivel hooks.

The painting industry has made tremendous strides within the last decade. Today there's an instrument for nearly every situation. Even I'm impressed by the ground breaking devices coming on the market, for example, dripless caulk guns, that have resolved a messy problem.

Before you begin your project, have a minute to check your equipment. You will most probably need to stock up on a few items. Make a complete list of what you need. Keep an eye out for tools that save time and labor. The more expensive equipment, such as sprayers and scaffolding, can be rented.

About Protective Gear

Some people don't think it's essential to wear protection gear when they're painting. I guess they think it's wimpy. But I've worked around enough toxic substances to understand how dangerous they could be. Dust, painting mist, and vapors affect the lungs rapidly, and skin pores are an available target for solvents and dust borne particles. Avoid being foolish... protect yourself.

Respirators Tutorial

A particle mask is better than almost nothing, but it doesn't form a good seal and it will not filter all the dust. If you do use a particle mask, get one with dual elastic bands. A damp handkerchief tied around your face gives better safety than particle masks that use light-weight rubber bands.

Double cartridge respirators are the safest solution. They'll provide you with the protection you will need for most vapors, mist, and dirt. Respirators come in three sizes. Make sure that yours fits. If it generally does not fit well, it won't work very well. Checking the fit of any respirator is like testing the seal of your diving face mask. Breathe then keep your hand over the side valves. The mask fits if it presses against your face and stays there while you hold your breath. Good respirators cost from $25 on up and usually come with replacement filters. Double cartridge respirators have color coded filters for different pollutants; be sure you are using the right filtration for the job. Make sure to read the instructions, and remember that you should change the cartridges if deep breathing becomes hard or if you start detecting vapors.

Protective Clothing Risk

Respirators do a good job of protecting your lungs, but you need to safeguard the rest of your body as well. Having been qualified in lead abatement, I know that your body can only eliminate an extremely small percentage of lead, even over a 30 year span. Many painters make the mistake of believing that a little exposure to dust particles or VOCs won't damage them, but it all adds up over time. I always dress for protection, keeping at least one good Tyvek painting suit on the job. Tyvek breathes well, weighs little, and provides good protection. The extra layer is a lttle bit warm, but I would rather wear a paint suit than be covered with dust or overspray (during a hot day make sure you drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration). In the event that you choose never to wear a painting suit, wear clothes that you will not mind turning into something resembling a painting palette.

I more often than not wear leather gloves, even when I'm brushing. They keep my hands clean and my grip dry. I take two pairs of gloves if I'm painting more than one color, to ensure that I don't contaminate the colors. Industrial strength rubber gloves are another must. I wear rubber gloves to stain, to wash out brushes, sprayers, and rollers; to open up, mix, and strain paints; and to handle toxic substances such as paint thinners.

Rounding out my paint anywhere wardrobe are safety glasses or goggles to keep chips, dust, and spray mist out of my eye, and, if I'm spraying, a hood. If you spray without a hood, anticipate to spend a lot of time cleaning paint out of your hair.

Masking Really Works

Usually the room you're painting will have a finished floor or carpet and the proverbial ounce of prevention can save your day. Even if you are only painting one inside home window, masking the floor is a good idea. Having an open can of paint makes me stressed if there isn't a drop cloth on the floor. I've learned the hard way. Masking becomes even more important if you're staining, because stain spatters almost everywhere. A few simple items can help you save a whole lot of touch up, cleaning up, and attempting to get paint from the carpet before your spouse sees it. Before I finally quit and admitted that my technique wasn't perfectly right and dripless, I spent more time touching up than I could have. Touching up is an undeniable fact of painting life, but these days I do significantly less of it because I take the time to mask.

First, you need a drop cloth. Heavy cloth is obviously best, but drop cloths need not be costly, professional painter's cloths. You can sometimes find quite large drapes at thrift stores, for the price of one thin clear plastic drop cloth. Look for drapes with vinyl fabric backing, for added waterproofing. I pull out the top stitching for an additional 3 inches of fabric.

The trouble with plastic drop cloths is that they weigh next to nothing and billow everywhere. Clear plastic works best when you can find 3 foot wide paper (like the kind used for flooring insulation) to lie on top of the plastic. If I'm painting a large new home and I need to mask the entire floor, the clear plastic/paper masking system is inexpensive and works well.

An excellent masking system is critical whether you're brushing, rolling, or spraying the paint. All you require is masking tape, paper for the outside edge of the floor and baseboard, and a slim layer of plastic for the house windows and furniture. 3M makes a good masking system which includes special painter's tape and dispensers with pre-taped clear plastic. If you've ever before spent hours scraping tape adhesive off home windows, you can appreciate advanced masking tapes. Commercial masking dispensers can be found at professional painting outlets and sometimes at local rental shops. If a commercial dispenser is hard to find, simply buy a roll of heavy paper and use your wrist to hold the masking tape roll.

Some tapes need more stickiness for fixing clear plastic to rougher textures like walls. Other tapes need to come off without leaving adhesive on home windows and smooth surfaces. Always wait at least four hours before removing tape to avoid tearing the paint. But don't leave tape on for longer than 24 hours or it'll be hard to remove.

Masking Floors Blueprint

In addition to masking off the primary areas to be painted, it is also good prevention to mask main traffic areas and wherever you plan to store and mix the paint. Distribute all the required drop cloths, then clean the areas you will be taping with vacuum cleaner, foxtail broom, or clean rag, to ensure a good seal. While you mask, concentrate on obtaining a clean edge with the tape, and make sure the tape is solidly attached.

Tape and paper dispensers are ideal for masking off the outer edge of an area. They ensure a clean edge along the floor and minimize clean-up. I take advantage of shorter pieces of masking (1 ft. to 2 ft.) for corners and closets. On long, straight runs I favor going corner to corner with one long strip of tape, which reduces the number of seams that should be taped. Once the perimeter is in place, I use drop cloths for the rest of the floor. For greater protection, I usually significantly overlap the masked perimeter with the drop cloth. On edges I also double the cloth to the inside, for extra security and stability.

Getting a tight seal with a drop cloth is critical when you're spraying an area, but guarding carpet or flooring with a sealed drop cloth is a good plan even if you are just brushing or rolling. A drop cloth will move if it isn't taped in place, and you'll finish up on your knees cleaning paint off the floor.

When You Mask Walls And Fixtures

No matter how you plan to use the paint, you'll need to mask permanent fixtures like the ceiling lighting, fans, and door knobs. Even if you have excellent hand control, cutting in (edging) the fittings that aren't masked is time consuming, specifically for multiple coats of paint. To mask fixtures, pull off enough paper and tape to cover the fixture, being careful to keep the tape just on the bottom of the fixture (newspaper also makes a good masking material for accessories). If possible, loosen the fixture covers and wall mounts to paint under them; this ensures a smooth border.

The quantity of masking that you should do is dependent upon what kind of house painting you'll be doing. The only real time the walls have to be masked is when you intend to spray the ceiling and you will need to keep the wall surfaces dry, for example, if the ceiling is getting some other color or finish. If the trim is clear coated or you would like to paint only the walls and ceiling, it makes sense to mask all around the trim, especially the windowsills.

Learn How To Mask Windows

Really the only time I mask windows is whenever I intend to spray. Taping house windows isn't quite effective. It takes too much time and paint still gets under the tape, and masking tape has a knack for really sticking to glass.

For interior or outdoor windows, I use the same system as for masking wall surfaces. The only real difference is the fact that masking glass windows usually is faster than masking whole walls. Masking glass windows and walls is usually done with clear plastic, which lets light in to the room and it is convenient for covering large areas (paper is most beneficial for masking flooring and trim). To measure plastic, I roll it out over the home window, cut as straight of a line as you can, and tape the perimeter of the window. Then it's just a matter of sticking the plastic onto the exposed tape, working from the top down and being careful to keep it straight and level.

Masking paper also works well to safeguard windows, floor, and molding from paint spatters. To protect home windows, apply masking paper over the top of the window’s casing. The width of the paper is enough to block most of the roller spatter. This same approach protects the floor and molding. If you are positive about your brushing and rolling abilities use 1 ½ inch masking tape instead of masking paper.

Concerned About Masking For Spraying?

Spraying demands that anything not being sprayed should be completely masked. Because spraying requires such intensive masking, wait to mask until you're ready to spray. Exterior surface spraying may need extensive masking, with respect to the amount of colors and whether there are adjoining buildings such as fences and power lines. When masking for spray, be sure you be detailed. Overspray is hard to regulate, especially under windy conditions. The more you've prepared for overspray, the better. The time spent masking is much less than the time you'll have spent touching up afterward. A tight seal with masking tape is crucial because sprayed paint gets almost everywhere. Overspray is similar to the occasional drip from a brush every so often... one will get from you, no matter how careful you are. But you can decrease overspray by double checking before you spray.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

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STAINS AND PAINTS PART 2

PAINTS AND STAINS - PART 2

This is part 2 of a 2 part series of articles on paints and stains.

Problem Solved - Finally, Interior Paints Coatings for Each Job

Did you ever wonder about the difference between interior and exterior paints? I once used exterior paint on an inside ceiling, reasoning that it could last longer. It could endure longer, but as I found out when I was required to touch up the ceiling only two years later, exterior paints will discolor on an interior surface. Exterior paints contain special additives designed to withstand the outside. Interior paints have additives that help the paint dry to a durable, uniform finish.

Most of the advances in painting technology have been with latex. Actually, latex has overtaken oil-based paint in several areas: strength and elasticity, as well as ease of use, clean-up, and disposal. Latexes have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. Some, like the Pristine line made by Benjamin Moore, are created with no VOCs whatsoever. Today's latexes are made with higher quality pigments and binders that give them more body, so each goes on thicker.

Latexes enjoy quite a lttle bit of level of popularity for interior applications, especially for walls and ceilings. Alkyds remain the professionals' choice for trim work because oil based paints are better to paint on detailed areas like molding and trim. However, that traditional school of thought is slowly changing as better latexes, including Pratt & Lambert's Accolade Interior Acrylic Semi Gloss, are introduced to the market.

Take The Headache Out of Finding Exterior Paint Coatings

Moisture can be an important concern for exterior paint selection. Every day a family of four will create several gallons of vaporized water inside a house.

Coupled with naturally occurring humidity, this can mean a lot of moisture moving through the wall surfaces and siding. Wetness is highest in the baths and kitchen. If these rooms aren't sufficiently ventilated, water will migrate through the surfaces. Vapor barriers help contain wetness, but vapor always seeks to escape. The structure of a house, the sort of vapor barrier they have, ventilation, and moisture all make choosing the right paint critical.

In wetter climates you need a paint that will let moisture go through the wood, so water doesn't get trapped under the paint and cause blistering and peeling. Latexes are porous and let moisture pass through, unlike alkyd paints, which form a waterproof seal. Alkyds also don't flex with floors that expand and contract, as wood will, especially in colder climates. Latex paints have significantly more elasticity, allowing better adhesion.

I favor using latex on most exterior areas, including wood siding, stucco, and concrete. Latexes avoid fading much better than most oil-based paints, and they'll cover either oil-based or latex primer (most oils have to go on top of an alkyd primer).

Latexes do a great job of covering cement. Despite its hardness, concrete is very porous, and oil-based paints don't always stay well. For greatest durability, I would recommend latex enamel.

In general, if I know of a latex product that will provide superior performance, I will choose it over an oil-based product that has to be cleaned with a thinner.

Latex only requires water. Thinners add one more expense, are hard to get rid of, and usually finish up spattered on my skin or clothes, regardless of how careful I am.

Solution For Staining Inside

You could spend a life time learning about stains and sealers, but there is nothing mysterious about them. The bottom line in determining which stain to utilize is to familiarize yourself with the products available. Read the label, along with any product information you can get, and speak to the staff at a professional paint shop.

Exterior stains come in oil based, varnish, polyurethane, and water-borne solvents. Stains have less colorant than paint plus more solvents, giving them increased wood penetration. Waterproofing is a priority with exterior stains. Most include built-in sealants to increase strength and help preserve the wood. The coloring in stains can be pigments, dyes, or both. A semi-transparent stain has more dye for grain penetration. A solid stain has more pigment for surface coating. Pigment is a finely ground coloring that doesn't penetrate the grain as deeply as a dye. That is why a pigmented stain is actually used along with a sealer such as urethane or varnish.

Some high quality interior stains have dyes to penetrate and pigments to bring out the richness of the grain. Others contain only pigments, which are easier to apply, blend, and touch up. Pigmented stains are lighter in color and bring out more of the wood grain. If you're looking for darker results, a dyed stain provides what you would like in one coating (be sure to use a conditioner on porous wood, such as pine and birch wood, to avoid splotching). Dyed stains are extremely difficult to touch up. Every coating eventually will require touching up, so make sure to consider the ease of maintenance in your use of stains. You'll get the best results by using better stains such as Minwax, Pratt & Lambert's Tonetic, Pittsburgh's Rez, or Wood-Kote.

If you wish to avoid the watery nature of stains, get a gel stain, which had the majority of the water solvent removed. Gels are simple to use. They wipe on, dry out fast, and cover evenly. Because they're colored with pigment, gel stains don't penetrate that well. They're a great choice for porous woods that are difficult to cover evenly with out a toner. Gel stains do a great job of showing off the grain on embossed metal or composite surfaces. I don't recommend working with them for hardwoods, which need a good dye stain to emphasize the depth and beauty of the grain.

Sanding Sealers Are an Exciting Paint Product

Sanding sealers are interior primers that both penetrate and seal wood. You can use them under clear coats or over stains as sealers. Sanding sealers are different from a sealer like polyurethane, which is not made to prime. They're similar to varnish, but diluted with solvents to permit better penetration for priming. The hardness of varnishes and lacquers helps prevent them from soaking in to the wood pores. Sanding sealer can provide a better bond for clear coats.

Shellacs are often put into sanding sealers to fortify the resin and offer an instant drying agent. They also add an amber tone, so if you are using a sanding sealer with shellac, make sure it won't affect the stain. Shellacs tend to yellow aver time and contain toluene, which has a very high VOC content. Shellacs are slowly supplying ways to new sanding sealer formulas with lower VOCs and better performance.

Alkyd resin sanding sealers also have high VOCs, although significantly less than their shellac based cousins. Pittsburgh Paints makes a slow drying out alkyd resin sanding sealer without shellac known as Rez 77-1. This specific primer/sealer is good for both interiors and exteriors. Pratt & Lambert's Latex Sanding Sealer has very low VOCs, but is purely for interior wood and shouldn't be used under a water borne polyurethane.

Oil-based sanding sealers also can be utilized to seal outdoor wood, especially decking, which is constantly exposed to sun and water. For color uniformity in areas like decks, it's best to completely coat, or back prime, the lumber before it is in place, using the same sealer or stain. Olympic Water Guard, Messmer's UV Plus, Behr's, and most top quality deck stains are great water repellent sealers that also can be utilized for priming outdoor wood.

Method for Wood and Stain Sealers on Interior Wood

Sealers, including varnishes, lacquers, urethanes, and shellacs, are added to the stain itself, applied as a top coat over a stain, or used as a clear coating on unstained wood trim. They can be used for just about any type of trim, including windows, entrance doors, and the casing around them. Although you can purchase stain/sealer combinations, they tend to yellow, are difficult to keep up, and don't endure as long as separately applied stain and sealers.

Varnishes contain oils such as Tung oil, a very hard, durable sealant that may be brushed on and dries slowly. Varnishes are easy to completely clean and keep maintaining with soap and water followed by a wiped on varnish, which often keeps a wood surface looking ideal for years. Make sure there is no wax in your cleaner, because wax clogs wood pores. I prefer using Hope's Tung Oil varnish for a wipe-on maintenance overcoat. Lacquer is a quick dry sealer that almost always must be sprayed, since it becomes tacky almost immediately.

Polyurethanes do almost everything shellac does, but they're simpler to maintain. While shellacs act like paint, polyurethanes act more like a clear coat that permeates the wood instead of sitting on it. Polyurethanes brush on and dry quickly, with little odor and VOCs. They have more or less replaced shellacs as a clear sealer. Another reason urethanes have become such popular sealers is the fact that they don't require sanding sealers.

The smells associated numerous paints and stains can be more than simply offensive, they can be toxic. Solvent based varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs give a super hard covering but contain very high VOC levels. Water based sealers, like the stains, match the performance of several solvent based sealers, with fewer VOCs. The VOC content of water borne sealers such as Sherwin Williams Kern Aqua Lacquer average about 250 grams per liter, or 2 pounds per gallon, half the usual VOCs of oil-based lacquers. The ethers in water based sealers aren't combustible, another advantage, but they still have sufficient VOCs to warrant a respirator.

Although they resist yellowing, water borne sealers such as acrylic latex polyurethanes do have a tendency to raise the grain. They will also set up or "flash off" quickly at temps higher than 60°F. The best working temperature for most water borne acrylic latex polyurethanes is between 50°F and 60°F, which lets them flash a bit more slowly. In cases like this, flashing-off simply means that the solvent evaporates and leaves the resins to finish the drying process. A contractor I knew once used water borne latex polyurethane sealer that flashed off so fast he could only apply it between 5 A.M. and 9 A.M. Anything later than that was too warm.

Minwax makes very good water based polyurethane, as do Pittsburgh, Pratt & Lambert, Benjamin Moore, and others.

Stains and Sealers for Exterior Applications

Because of their better penetration and sealing ability, most exterior stains sold today are oil-based. However, oil-based solid stains peel as they get older, making them more difficult to maintain. A solid stain is like paint: It coats more than it penetrates. A latex solid stain peels less which is easier to maintain as it ages. However, I favor oil-based products for semi-transparent stains. Added oil solvents let them penetrate deeper. A number of the better stains on the marketplace include Pittsburgh Solid Color Latex Stain, Messmer's U.V Plus, Moorwood Solid Color Exterior Stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscape stains, Pittsburgh Semi-transparent Exterior Stain, Rez Deck Stain by Pittsburgh, and the Sikkens Cetol system.

Deck stains will often have more solids than a typical exterior stain, which will make them stronger. I recommend buying a high-end stain that is semi-transparent or what is called a trans-oxide. Until lately, the significant problem with outdoor stains was their low UV resistance, but newer trans-oxides have finely ground metal mixed in for better protection. A high end deck stain won't need a different sealer coating, although you can add one (such as Olympic Water Guard) if you believe extra protection is needed to fight moisture content and sun exposure. Better deck stains retail for about $35 a gallon and cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.

Avoid using deck stains that contain silicone. Despite their low price, they are not a good deal. Advertisements for silicone stains and deck sealers often show beaded up water on a deck, and many people are fooled into thinking that this is the indication of a successful coating. However, silicone breaks down quickly, usually in a matter of months, leaving a discolored, waxy coat that is a pain to eliminate. The broken down silicone also stops repelling water.

"High build" coatings such as Sikkens and Messmers work remarkably well on exterior siding, nevertheless they are too soft to be utilized on your deck. Eliminating these coatings takes gallons of wood cleaner and a significant amount of work.

Water borne exterior stains, such as Sherwin Williams Woodscapes, incorporate the advantages of oil-based and latex coatings. They run and drip less than oil based stain, and dry faster, allowing for two coatings the same day. Water borne stains have the resilience and flexibility of the latex stain, which gives them lasting strength. They're a great choice for most applications. But bear in mind that clearing up water based stains requires work. You can find a couple of oil components in the solvent that have to be cleaned. First use soap and water, then alcohol. Ask your dealer for specific cleaning directions for water borne stains, and scan the label.

When In Doubt, Ask

In the event that you still have questions about which paint or stain to utilize, don't hesitate to ask people in the know. An experienced, competent salesperson can answer any questions it's likely you have. Look for a paint store with staff having at least 10 years of experience in the business. Ask them what has worked best for your particular application and ask to read a spec sheet on the product in question.

The answers you get will depend on whom you ask. A paint store will attempt to market you one their own products, after all, that is why they're in business. Painting contractors may not be impartial, either. They have to sell their experience. I get lots of cell phone calls from people seeking help with their painting problems. Most painters, including myself, don't mind giving an hour of time, but if you need in depth answers, consider finding a contractor for a professional examination. Rates vary, but I usually charge about $60 for a written and oral analysis, with consideration to the traveling time involved. A paid examination will let you know whether you should paint, stain, or re-side, as well as which finish might be best for your project. Each painting job has unique conditions that require specific answers.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Problem Solved - Finally, Paint Coatings for Every Job

High Demand Paint Coatings for Each Job

The right kind of coating is essential. If you pick the incorrect paint, it won't matter how much time and money you spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint projects deteriorate too soon because poor quality primer and paint were used.

A dependable guideline is to match the existing finish. If you are painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have a myriad of choices if the material is uncoated, but you still need to consider weather, maintenance, and durability to determine the best finish for the work.

Primers Are an Exciting Paint Product

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It can determine how well the surface is protected and how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters about just as much as which primers to make use of. Basically, you will need to use a primer when you are covering a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the sole time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To ensure compatibility, choose a product that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coating distributed by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. Unless you want to deal with reading the small print, ask to see the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. If a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you may ever need and you might need help translating a few of the terms and specifications.

Primers form an even foundation for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a fresh or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top coats end up flaking off much earlier than you'll expect. While you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.

Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places that have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second coat of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The house pictured below is an example of a project where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it an even base for the top layers. Some climates almost demand a second coat of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his jobs last. In the event that you live near to salt water, I would recommend that you take into account doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trimming. You might think that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of wood trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer makes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for coats. (Here's a tip: If you tint your primer the colour of the top coat, it is possible to quicken the painting process by reducing the number of top coats needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)

Here’s What You Should Do When Priming Interior Surfaces and Ceilings

I would recommend using latex primers whenever we can. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, like the laundry room and shower, that require a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are excellent latex primers that seal similarly as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the sleeping rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have satisfactory vapor barriers. Also, I can paint an oil-based top coat over latex primer.

Older houses require room-by-room decisions on what primer to make use of. If the home does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will need a primer that seals the walls and keeps moisture from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers can be the response to priming wet rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin staining, and they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also works as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain an even sheen over primer. You may make sure compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

When it comes to walls, understand that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, in particular when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are various primers you may use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish you've planned.

Drywall is a lot less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any kind of top coat, but old habits are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I'll sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding markings or roughness.

No-Fuss Priming For Interior Wood

When selecting primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the kind of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the type of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Most often I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost water in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in restrooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you can't prime all over the wood. When you can completely apply primer the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect most of the wood trim from moisture. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your job has many different variables

Primers For the Exterior

Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still choose to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the home does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it's new), especially if I have access to the siding and wood trim before it goes on. It's always better to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to give each piece its vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the hardwood has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a moderate detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are quite porous, so you might need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There are a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final layers. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special hardwood cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In case the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially designed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coat, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work very well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

No-Fuss Priming For Metals

Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough attachment with the area. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes come from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to remove, and may need more than just thinner. Check with your paint store if you wish to be certain a primer will continue to work on new galvanized steel surfaces.

There are primers for each and every type of metal. Ferrous metals, made of iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is nearly impossible to totally remove if you don't sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can remain that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from contact with air. Some companies refer to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had good luck using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be layered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.

Much like any coating, the additional time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much by any means and stay right where they're painted, for good or for bad. A clean surface is particularly important when you use an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies advise against using almost any solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.

A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mixture of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metal material if combined at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is helpful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be used to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.

No-Fuss Priming For Masonry

Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually water, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 3 months before you apply primer and paint it, especially if it is highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be applied on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is actually tinted mortar and full of lime, is an ideal surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's designed for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coating, but it is important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had success adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for nearly all masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only method to speed up the curing time of cement. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches pores and skin!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, in particular when you combine the acid with water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. If you add water to acid it will splash and burn anything it contacts. And blend it in the correct ratio, usually 1:3. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be a chore. You need to keep them well maintained and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Cement surfaces in really sad shape should be sandblasted, or you can use a new system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good condition, prep the surface and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new concrete floors, I would recommend a concrete stain made by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My inclination is water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top coating like latex.

Older, pre-painted concrete floors have to be repainted with a similar top overcoat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top layer is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top layer requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

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Making an Accurate Estimate for Painting

 

Inspecting the Condition of the Existing Paint

 

When inspecting most paint jobs, I carry a scraper, a dusting brush, a clean rag, and sometimes a wire brush. I also use those tools to inspect the caulk, wood, trim, and substrata such as masonry.

 

An inspection of the exterior will turn up a wide range of conditions, from sound paint to paint that is cracked or peeling. Exposure to a wide range of temperature and moisture conditions will wear down any finish over time, no matter what the climate. The south side of the house might be weathered and peeling, while the north side only needs a good cleaning and touching up. Be sure to look for water damage from the roof or near the foundation where water might pool.

 

An interior inspection is the same: Search out weak areas where the paint has loosened or cracked, while also checking the paint that has held up well. Check around the windows for loosened putty, look for grease build-up in the kitchen and mildew in the baths, inspect the condition of the trim, and examine the walls and ceilings.

 

Even paint jobs a few years old may show signs of paint failure—areas of flaking, peeling, cracking, and blistering. Paint that’s covered with layers of grime actually may be in great shape, so first lightly rub an area to see what comes off. When a good paint or stain starts to go (at an average 8.5 years, although that figure fluctuates quite a bit), it gets a dull chalk on its surface. Chalking, or slight flaking of a semi-transparent stain, tells you that it’s time to recoat. If all the surfaces are chalking without more severe failure, you’re actually in luck. The whole process of recoating will take less work and paint.

 

Consider the Present Paint Condition

 

When launching painting projects, people often neglect to consider the condition of the existing finish. I recommend that you make a close inspection of the entire painting area, keeping the following questions in mind: How extensive will the project be? Is there any part of the existing finish that can serve as a match for the new finish? Is the existing finish in good enough shape to take another coat? Besides being full of surprises, this examination also will show you where to begin work.

 

When assessing the paint’s condition, I make a point of inspecting the surface underneath the paint. It’s not enough to notice where the paint is failing; any underlying problems must be addressed. A thorough examination of the existing conditions gives you a good starting point for the painting project and keeps re-dos to a minimum.

 

Planning a Job

 

There’s more to buying paint than picking a color you like. Every house painting project has unique features, from room size to neighborhood architecture that should be taken into account for your home to look its best.

 

Design considerations

 

Interiors and exteriors present different design issues. When choosing colors for the inside, you should consider the rooms themselves. Do they feature lots of woodwork, or hardly any trim at all? Do you want to make a small room look larger, or vice versa? Don’t forget to consider your furniture and carpeting or flooring, unless you’re starting from scratch and want the furnishings to match the walls. You may want a bright kitchen and a subdued dining room. You may want to give each room a distinctive color, or you might choose one color for the whole house. Your possibilities are endless, but give them some thought.

 

Paint sheens present another consideration. Sheens range from flat, the least reflective sheen, through eggshell, satin and semi-gloss, to glossy, the most reflective. I recommend a high-quality flat or eggshell paint for most rooms because it’s easy to maintain and touch up. A glossier finish is almost impossible to match, even with identical paint. The gloss fades over time, and not always evenly. A flat finish, on the other hand, has no sheen to fade.

 

Sheen can emphasize the different qualities of your rooms. Bedrooms usually look good with a “quieter” finish such as a flat or eggshell, whereas a dining room might benefit from a satin finish, which softly reflects light. Kitchens and bathrooms should be painted with a washable sheen such as a semi-gloss (flat latexes are hard to clean and tend to wash off). I’ve always found that a semi-gloss or satin finish sets trim off nicely. If you’d rather downplay the trim, use a flatter finish, such as eggshell. It’s a good idea to stay away from glossy ceilings. They attract too much attention and tend to diminish the size of a room.

 

When selecting exterior colors, you need to consider wide-ranging factors, including the style and roof of the house, surrounding colors, and the climate. Start with the roof: The new color scheme should match it. I can think of a few houses that have vibrant exterior paint, but never look quite right because the color doesn’t match the roof (until the roof is covered with snow).

 

Architectural styles also influence color choices. A Queen Anne-style house, with its many layers and patterns, will often have a shade and color for each architectural feature. In contrast, colonial styles usually have only one body color and one trim accent. But no law says you have to paint according to the style of house. You can choose to accentuate any favorite detail, whether it’s your front door or another focal point.

 

Roof, style, brick, and stone fall into the “constant” category. Constants are the parts of the house that don’t change often, and therefore are primary considerations in any color decisions. If you’re seeking the advice of a paint store, I recommend taking a few photos of your house along so a color professional can better evaluate your home’s constants.

 

Climate is a big consideration. You’ll notice that region influences many color trends, such as the sharper hues used to brighten up the muted light of the Northwest. Cool pastels are better suited to the harsher light and dry terrain of the Southwest.

 

If you live in a country setting, the landscape may help determine the basic tones for your exterior. If you live in a city, you may be influenced by your neighbors’ choices. Some neighborhood homes seem to be competitively individual in their design, while another neighborhood shares similar color schemes. What are the accent colors in your neighborhood?

 

Whatever criteria you use in your color decisions, beware of trends. Prevailing fashions may not suit you or the region where you live. The earth tones that swept the country in the late 1970s were designed to complement the countryside, but a lot of them ended up on urban houses, where they looked dull. Paint companies’ brochures often reflect the current trend. Remember that there are thousands of choices available, despite the emphasis companies place on certain hues or colors.

 

Narrowing your selection

 

Every paint store offers brochures, color chips, and color fans that feature combinations for every style and taste. Many stores have refined the selection process with programmable computers.

 

I’ve found that paint chips alone aren’t enough to help me make a good choice. The manufacturers’ brochures state as much, in small print at the bottom of the page, where they note that “the color of these chips may not perfectly match the paint you order.” That is because most brochures use color dyes, whereas paints are colored with pigments. About 80% of the people I work with say the color they get is darker than what they expected. For this reason, I recommend going a shade lighter.

 

Next, try out a quart of the color you like. Far too many homeowners rush out and buy gallons of what turns out to be the wrong paint, then blame the store. There are lots of reasons that paint can appear off-color, but color mixing is seldom one of them, especially if you go to a reputable store. That’s why, starting with a small amount is so important. The first color you pick isn’t likely to be the one you will keep, and you don’t want to be stuck with custom-mixed gallons you can’t use. It’s not uncommon to go through 8 to 12 quarts in the search for the perfect shade. That may sound like a lot, but considering how expensive color consultants are, spending $50 to $100 for the perfect paint is a good buy. You should be able to do more than just “live” with the color you pick: You should be happy with it.

 

Whether you’re matching an existing color or refining your selection, the process won’t be complete until you’ve verified your choice with a “brush-out.” 5 brush-outs let you see how the color you’ve selected actually looks before you invest in the total amount for the job. To do a brush-out, simply make one brush stroke from the mixed quart of paint on a detail or siding (or on a sample of that material). After the paint has dried (one hour for latex, two for oil-based paint), view it in different light and at different times of the day to see how you like it.

 

Brush-outs also are a good way to match touch-up paint. Touch-ups can be difficult because paints and stains age differently—some fade while others darken. Take a sample of the work to be matched to the paint store. Do yourself and the store a favor and take a big sample, not just a chip of the existing paint. Sometimes I’ll take a window, a cabinet door, or a piece of siding. That way, the newly mixed paint can be applied directly to the existing paint, blow-dried, and held up to the light for a match test.

 

Estimating the Project Size

 

If you’re planning on doing the painting yourself, your most important consideration probably will be the quantity of paint and material that you will need. The bulk of any estimate starts with measuring the total area of the paint project. To do this, you only need a tape measure, paper, and a pencil.

 

As you gain experience, you may notice other variables, such as the age and condition of the surfaces, figuring into the estimate. The more difficult estimates involve older structures that teem with “hidden agendas,” or minor repairs that turn into major undertakings. Blisters on exterior siding may be caused by water evaporation from un-insulated walls. A small plaster crack may reveal large separations between lath and plaster that need to be fixed with screws and putty. The more you know about the condition of the surface and paint, the fewer surprises you’ll have. Older houses can fool even seasoned pros, who estimate such mystery jobs carefully and often opt for a time and material contract.

 

Here are some easy formulas for estimating rooms, doors, fences, and other features.

 

Interior Estimates

 

To determine the area of an interior job, begin with the walls. Multiply the height by the length of the sides, and add the totals. Add the ceiling area to that total. Next, figure the area of the windows and doors: If the total is 100 sq. ft. or less, don’t bother deducting it from the wall area. If it’s higher than 100 sq. ft., subtract that number.

 

The “height-times-width” formula also works for trim, doors, and windows, if you take certain variables into account. If the door has four to six panels, double its area. If it’s a French door, the area should be tripled. Handrails and balustrades are estimated by multiplying the height by the length, then multiplying by four to get the total surface.

 

Contractors have a fast method of calculating wall and ceiling area that is almost as accurate as the process I’ve just described. Simply take the square footage and multiply it by 3.5 in rooms with an 8-ft. ceiling. For rooms with a 10-ft. ceiling, multiply the area by 3.75. If you’re painting a new house, you can simplify your estimating by asking the drywall contractors for the total area.

 

Exterior Estimates

 

The methods for estimating interior surface area can be used for some exterior portions of the house, including siding, doors, windows, and handrails. However, certain architectural features have their own formulas:

For smooth blinds, use the standard “length-times-width” formula. Double the area when computing slatted blinds.

 

Plain eaves, add 50% to the total area. For eaves with rafters running through, triple the area.

 

Plain cornices also get the standard measurement. Triple the area if they’re decorative or fancy.

 

For latticework, measure the area of the lattices on one side and multiply by four to get the total. Plain fences require a doubling of the area. Picket fences would be multiplied by four.

 

To make all your estimates as close as possible, then discuss them with an expert at a professional painting store. Hard and fast estimates are difficult to come by, even for professionals. If in doubt, round your figures up—it’s better to have too much paint than not enough. Extra paint will come in handy for eventual repairs and touch ups. Properly sealed and stored, paint has a long shelf life. Any lumps or rust that is due to oxidation can be strained out.

 

Estimating the Project Time

 

Figuring the time for a painting job is more complicated than estimating area. Contractors know that time estimates are an art that takes a while to perfect; underbidding the time factor is a major banana peel for non-professionals. A host of variables affect a time estimate, especially for older homes: the amount of set-up and preparation, structural repairs, the number of colors and coats, the types of doors and windows, and the type of surface. As the saying goes, it’s all in the details. New houses and additions have fewer variables because the surfaces are new. This makes estimating the time easier.

 

Windows and doors can take up to 65% of the time spent painting an interior or exterior. Although I may need only a few days to mask and spray the siding or walls, I always know that the trim— notably the windows—will take another week or two. The following estimates are for one side of doors and windows, including everything from preparation to the finish coat. Bear in mind that these are professional estimates and should be used as a reference point, especially if you’re new to painting. All you really need is a general idea of the time the project will take. Your focus should be quality, not speed.

 

Windows involve the most detail, so let’s begin with them. Repainting a well-maintained window that opens (either double-hung or operating) will take about 90 minutes. Older opening windows that need extensive preparation will take twice as long. Because fixed windows are one piece they only take half as long as windows that open will take. Vinyl window cladding is a low-maintenance exterior innovation. Most homes built before clad windows became popular in the 1970s have wood sashes that require much more upkeep.

 

A hollow-core, flat door should take from 90 minutes to two hours—about the same as a fixed window. A solid door with four to six panels will take the same amount of time as a double-hung or operating window, approximately three hours. Remember that doors also include the jambs and casing (the trim around the door). Many front doors have windows, which also add to the time.

Estimating the time it will take to paint any surface depends on how the paint will be applied. Although windows are usually brushed, doors and trim can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed, so the time required to paint them can vary.

The height of the house is an important exterior consideration. Due to the increased climbing and set-up time, a two- or three-story house takes longer to paint than a single-story house. A multistoried house also raises the question of whether to use ladder jacks or scaffolding, which take time to move and set up.

Time estimates are another area where a reputable paint dealer can help.

 

Estimating Costs.

 

Your area estimate tells you approximately how much paint and materials, such as caulk and sand-paper, you will need for the job. Every can of paint has a recommended spreading rate based on a surface that is “smooth, primed, and “non-porous.” Of course, not every surface fits that description. Although top rated paints generally have a recommended rate of 400 to 500 sq. ft. per gallon, I’ve found that most get closer to 533 sq. ft. per gallon. When estimating, it’s a good idea to subtract 10% of the recommended coverage. When spraying porous surfaces like stucco, I subtract another 15%—50 sq. ft. off my spread rate of 350 sq. ft. per gallon. Again, your trusty paint dealer can help you estimate porous surfaces.

 

Here’s a cost estimate for a typical interior room (I haven’t included an exterior estimate because the variables are simply too numerous)

A room that is 12 ft. wide, 16 ft. long, and 8 ft. high, or 630 sq. ft., with three windows and two doors, will take 4 gallons of paint. So, at $35 per gallon for a high-quality product, you can plan on spending $140 for paint. Other basic materials, such as caulk, masking tape and paper, spackle, thinner, and sandpaper, should bring the material costs to $160.

 

A professional would take about 16 hours to paint this room. The rates for labor range from $20 to $40 an hour, which would total $320 to $640—far more than the cost of paint and materials. According to the Decorating Contractors of America, only 8.3% of the contractor’s fee goes toward paint. The rest is overhead and labor.

 

Even painting one room your self would save you enough to buy top-of-the-line brushes, rollers, and other painting tools, and still come out ahead. I know plenty of people who buy low-end equipment to “get through” their one painting project for the year then throw everything away when the job is finished. That doesn’t make much sense, since they’ll eventually have to go out and buy the tools all over again. I’ve also found that low-end equipment gives low-end results and is depressing to work with. Professional-quality tools will give you professional results for years to come.

 

When you budget your paint job, don’t skimp on the top coatings, whatever you do. Many homeowners mistakenly think that a middle-of-the-road paint bought at a discount chain is good enough. However, cheaper paints contain no more than 15 ingredients, compared to anywhere from 40 to 50 for top-of-the-line paints. More (and better) ingredients allow high-end paint to go on smooth and thick and dry evenly. Their coverage also is superior: One $30 gallon of paint covers as much area as two $15 gallons, to within a few cents. This means fewer coatings and less work. Lasting power alone makes quality paints a better deal. They will last, on average, two years longer on exteriors, and two to four years longer on interiors.

Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
phone: 425-512-7400

      https://soundqualitypainting.com

 

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10 Interior House Painting Tips

Painter іn Lake Stevens: 10 Interior House Painting Tips.

 “Use thеѕе tips tо make уоur painting projects gо faster аnd smoother.”

Hеrе аrе 10 tips tо make уоur Lake Stevens paintingprojects gо smoother аnd faster whіlе giving уоu a professional-looking finish thаt you’ll bе proud оf. You’ll аlѕо fіnd ingenious tips thаt саn cut уоur cleanup tіmе іn half аnd extend thе life оf уоur paint brushes.

Painting Techniques Tip 1: Tо avoid lap marks roll thе full height оf thе wall аnd kеер a wet edge.

Roll thе full height оf thе wall…

Lap marks аrе thоѕе ugly stripes caused bу uneven layers оf paint buildup. Thеу occur whеn уоu roll оvеr paint that’s аlrеаdу partly dry. (In warm, dry conditions, latex paint саn begin tо stiffen іn lеѕѕ thаn a minute!) Thе key tо avoiding lap marks  whеn doing DIY wall painting іѕ tо maintain a “wet edge, ” ѕо еасh stroke оf уоur roller overlaps thе previous stroke bеfоrе thе paint саn begin tо dry.

Tо maintain a wet edge, start near a corner аnd run thе roller uр аnd dоwn thе full height оf thе wall, moving оvеr slightly wіth еасh stroke. Mоvе backward whеrе necessary tо еvеn оut thісk spots оr runs. Don’t let thе roller bесоmе nearly dry; reload іt оftеn ѕо thаt it’s аlwауѕ аt lеаѕt half loaded. Kеер thе open end оf thе roller frame facing thе area that’s аlrеаdу painted. Thаt puts lеѕѕ pressure оn thе open ѕіdе оf thе roller, ѕо you’re lеѕѕ likely tо leave paint ridges whеn doing DIY wall painting.

Tip 2: Mix ѕеvеrаl cans оf paint іn a large bucket fоr a consistent color thrоughоut thе room.

Mix paint іn a large bucket…

Paint color mау vary slightly frоm оnе саn tо thе nеxt. If уоu hаvе tо open a new саn іn thе middle оf a wall, thе difference mау bе noticeable. Mixing thе paints tоgеthеr eliminates thе problem. It’s best tо estimate thе аmоunt оf paint you’ll need аnd mix іt іn a 5-gallon bucket (a process called “boxing”).

Whеn coverage іѕ difficult tо estimate, add mоrе rаthеr thаn lеѕѕ whеn doing DIY wall painting. Yоu саn аlwауѕ pour thе leftover bасk іntо cans. Fоr large jobs, uѕе thе bucket аnd a roller screen rаthеr thаn a roller tray. It’s muсh faster tо load уоur roller wіth thе screen thаn tо uѕе a roller pan. Simply dunk thе roller іntо thе paint bucket аnd thеn roll іt аlоng thе screen untіl іt stops dripping.

Tip 3: Let thе paint dry thеn cut thе tape loose fоr a perfect edge.

Cut tape whеn paint іѕ dry…

Onсе paint іѕ dry, уоu can’t just pull thе tape оff thе trim. Paint forms a film bеtwееn thе wall аnd thе tape, аnd removing thе tape tears pieces оf dried paint оff thе wall. Sо bеfоrе pulling оff thе tape, cut іt loose.

Wait fоr thе paint tо completely dry fоr аt lеаѕt 24 hours. Thеn uѕе a sharp utility knife оr box cutter knife tо slice thrоugh thе film. Start іn аn inconspicuous area tо make sure thе paint іѕ hard еnоugh tо slice cleanly. If уоu cut thе paint whіlе it’s ѕtіll gummy, you’ll make a mess. Aѕ уоu cut thе paint, pull uр thе tape аt a 45-degree angle.

Tip 4: Paint thе trim fіrѕt, thеn thе ceiling аnd walls.

Paint thе trim fіrѕt…

Pros usually follow a certain order whеn painting a room. Thеу paint thе trim fіrѕt, thеn thе ceiling, thеn thе walls. That’s bесаuѕе it’s easier (and faster) tо tape оff thе trim thаn tо tape оff thе walls. And уоu certainly don’t want tо tape thеm bоth оff!

Whеn painting thе trim, уоu don’t hаvе tо bе neat. Just concentrate оn getting a smooth finish оn thе wood. Don’t worry іf thе trim paint gets оntо thе walls. You’ll cover іt later whеn painting thе walls. Onсе thе trim іѕ completely painted аnd dry (at lеаѕt 24 hours), tape іt оff (using аn “easy release” painter’s tape), thеn paint thе ceiling, thеn thе walls.

Tip 5: Prime аnd texture wall patches tо avoid a blotchy finish.

Roll оn primer оvеr patches…

Freshly painted walls оftеn look blotchy. Thе color іѕ uniform, but thе sheen isn’t consistent. Thіѕ usually occurs оvеr thе holes аnd cracks уоu patched wіth a filler оr drywall compound. Thе porous fillers absorb thе paint, dulling thе surface (a problem called “flashing”). Whеn light hits thеѕе dull spots, thеу stick оut like a sore thumb. Thе smooth patch аlѕо stands оut іn contrast tо thе slightly bumpy texture оf thе rеѕt оf thе wall. A quick coat оf primer іѕ аll іt takes tо eliminate flashing аnd texture differences.

Primer seals thе patch ѕо paint won’t sink іn аnd look dull. Tо match thе texture prime wіth a roller whіlе feathering оut thе edges. Choose a nap thickness tо match thе surrounding wall texture (a 3/8-in. nap roller fоr smooth walls; 1/2-in. fоr textured).

Tip 6: Clean dirty surfaces ѕо thе paint саn fоrm a strong bond.

Clean dirty areas bеfоrе painting…

If уоu paint оvеr dirty, oily surfaces, thе paint wіll easily chip оr peel оff. Sо bеfоrе painting, clean grimy areas wіth a de-glosser оr heavy-duty cleaner intended fоr pre-painting cleaning. Thеу work wеll tо clean painted, varnished оr enameled surfaces tо improve thе adhesion оf thе new paint. They’re ideal fоr cleaning greasy оr oily areas like kitchen аnd bathroom walls аnd removing hаnd marks аrоund light switches аnd doorknobs.

Wipe оn thе cleaner іn a circular motion using a lint-free cloth оr abrasive pad. Start аt thе bоttоm аnd work uр. Aftеr thе surface іѕ clean, fіll іn аnу nicks аnd holes аnd thеn sand thе filled areas smooth bеfоrе painting. Thе cleaners аrе available аt paint stores аnd home centers. Bе sure tо wear rubber gloves аnd eye protection.

Tip 7: Roll paint аlоng thе edges fоr consistent texture.

Roll оut paint near trim…

Corners аnd areas nеxt tо trim thаt аrе painted оnlу wіth a brush hаvе a noticeably different texture thаn thе surrounding paint. Tо ensure thе finished texture wіll bе consistent іn thеѕе areas, brush оn thе paint аnd immediately roll іt оut bеfоrе thе paint dries.

Uѕе a 3-in. roller wіth a nap that’s thе ѕаmе thickness аѕ thе roller used fоr thе rеѕt оf thе wall. Roll thе paint аѕ close аѕ уоu саn tо thе edges wіthоut bumping thе opposite wall оr slopping paint оntо thе trim. Finish brushing оn thе paint аnd rolling іt оut іn оnе area bеfоrе moving оn tо thе nеxt section.

Tip 8: Uѕе cotton drop cloths rаthеr thаn plastic.

Protect floor wіth cotton drop cloth…

Spills аnd spatters happen, regardless оf hоw careful уоu аrе. It’s a lot easier tо prepare fоr thеm thаn tо wipe thеm оut оf уоur carpeting оr оff уоur wood floor later. All іt takes іѕ canvas drop cloths іn уоur work area (a 4-ft. x 15-ft. cloth costs $15). Thе thісk canvas stays іn place, ѕо уоu don’t need tо tape іt, аnd уоu саn uѕе іt tо cover аnу surface. Plastic drop cloths аrе slippery tо walk оn оr set a ladder оn аnd don’t stay іn place. Evеn worse, paint spills оn plastic stay wet, аnd thеу саn end uр оn уоur shoes аnd gеt tracked thrоugh thе house. Canvas іѕ slippery оn hard floors, ѕо rosin paper ($10 fоr 400 sq. ft. аt home centers) іѕ better оvеr vinyl, tile аnd hard- wood. Tape thе sheets tоgеthеr аnd tо thе floor tо provide a nonslip surface.

But еvеn wіth canvas оr rosin-paper drop cloths, large spills ѕtіll need tо gеt wiped uр right away оr they’ll seep thrоugh. Clean spills wіth paper towels оr cloth rags. Likewise, іf уоu splatter paint оn аnу оthеr surface, wipe іt uр immediately.

Tip 9: Feather оut paint whеrе уоu can’t kеер a wet edge.

Feather paint wіth a dry roller іn large areas…

Yоu can’t cover large areas like ceilings, extra-tall walls оr stairwells іn single, continuous strokes, ѕо thе best wау tо minimize lap marks оn thеѕе areas іѕ tо feather оut thе paint аlоng thе edges thаt уоu can’t kеер wet. Thе thinner, feathered coat оf paint wіll avoid thе buildup thаt causes thе lap mark.

Tо paint a large section wіthоut leaving lap marks, roll thе nearly dry roller іn different directions аlоng thе dry edge, feathering оut thе paint аѕ уоu gо. Aftеr completing thе entire length оf thе wall оr ceiling mоvе tо thе nеxt section аnd paint оvеr thе feathered edges. Fоr thе second coat, apply thе paint іn thе opposite direction. Thіѕ crisscrossing paint application sharply reduces (if nоt eliminates) lap marks.

Tip 10: Sand trim bеtwееn coats fоr аn ultra-smooth finish.

Sand trim fоr a smooth finish…

Onе coat оf paint usually won’t hide thе underlying color аnd sheen оn trim. And іf уоu don’t sand thе surface smooth bеtwееn coats, thе finish mау hаvе a grainy texture. Fоr a smooth finish, sand thе trim bеfоrе applying еасh coat оf paint.

Sand thе trim wіth a fine-grit sanding sponge. Sponges gеt іntо crevices whеrе sandpaper can’t gо аnd let уоu apply еvеn pressure. Thеn apply thе fіrѕt coat оf paint аnd let іt dry аt lеаѕt 24 hours. Lightly sand іt аgаіn fоr a completely smooth surface аnd apply thе second coat. Aftеr еасh sanding, vacuum thе trim аnd wipe іt dоwn wіth a tack cloth tо remove thе dust.

Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
Phone: 425-512-7400
jason@soundqualitypainting.com

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